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                                                                    The End of a Great Year.... 12/24/2009
                                                                    9 Comments
                                                                     
                                                                    It's a little cheesy and cliche, but as the year comes to an end it is hard not to look back and reflect on the previous 12 months. Did we live up to our expectations? Did we meet any goals, check any items off our Bucket List? For climbers, this inevitably means thinking back to our favorite climbs, those elusive projects, and the great times laughing at the crag. With that in mind, I thought I would share some of the highlights from my year in climbing, and hope that some of you guys will share a few of yours in the Comments section. 

                                                                    The year started off with a couple of high notes from the midwest. First, a group of friends from St. Louis came to visit and do some climbing. I got to play tour guide, and take them to some of our local classics, including Steve's Arete, Hitchcock Pinnacle, Arizona Flyways, Blood Book and of course, Milagrosa Canyon and Gates Pass. Shortly after that I flew to St. Louis myself, and between spending time with family and friends, got to squeeze in a trip to the Holy Boulders of Southern Illinois. With near perfect temps and high motivation, I was able to finally send a long term project that had eluded me for many reasons. But I managed to pull out a send of Jungle Book, an ultra-classic sloper arete, and one of the most striking lines I've ever had the pleasure to climb.

                                                                    This summer I fell in love with the Orifice Wall, and had a blast climbing up there. I felt like I finally developed some of the skills necessary to be a decent sport climber, and toiled away at a few projects up there. I feel pretty confident that Hard Day at the Orifice and Orifice Politics will always be among the best sport routes I will ever climb.

                                                                    After Orifice season, I was pretty psyched to switch gears and start bouldering some more. When Chris Prewitt sent me satellite images of Panther Peak, I was salivating at the chance to head up there. It was exhilarating exploring the area, and finding cool new lines around every corner. And after cleaning epic amounts of choss, I feel we found some pretty good problems up there, and begun development of what could be a real good area. Snagging the first ascent of Righteous Beast was definitely a highlight. And even now, after the initial excitement of sending the problem has worn off a bit, I am convinced it is one of the best problems in Southern Arizona. Hopefully development will continue up there, as there are plenty of stellar lines still waiting to be done.

                                                                    Recently it has been a lot of fun to work on this website. It has been a lot of work, but well worth to help people find some new areas to check out. Thanks especially to every one who has contributed to the site or offered feedback or suggestions! I hope to keep improving the site and keep adding more and more information and media.

                                                                    Of course, the most memorable thing about any year of climbing is all the amazing people I have been fortunate enough to climb with. From the OG's of Team Tuesday, to the peanut gallery at the Orifice Wall, and all the folks I have been bouldering with lately - THANKS FOR A GREAT YEAR! There are so many reasons I love and continue climbing, and the people I get to climb with are right on top of the list. So thanks for the laughter and stories, the motivation and support, and for sharing this passion and making every day that more interesting and meaningful.

                                                                    What about you???
                                                                     


                                                                    Comments

                                                                    Paul

                                                                    01/12/2010 13:26:02

                                                                    Thanks for putting together a nice source of info. for Tucson bouldering. Perhaps you would be interested to know that there is a nice variation on Hairpin Roof. I know it's contrived but it climbs really well. You basically eliminate the large hold near the beginning. To do so you start low, backhand the crimp with your left hand, cross over right to a crimp and then go left to the slopy rail. The tough part is getting your body out of this position. You have to come into that bad undercling with your right hand (toe hooking helps) and then get your left heel up to the level of the slopy rail. Once you do that, top out either way. I'd say it's V10 and then hard V10 with the right topout. Scully showed it to me last year. He has some comments about it on his 2008 8a scorecard.

                                                                    later,
                                                                    Paul

                                                                     

                                                                    tj

                                                                    01/16/2010 00:54:28

                                                                    what's with u dudes renaming and grading a lot of problems that have already been established (some of which are mine)? this is poopy...

                                                                     

                                                                    tj

                                                                    01/16/2010 00:56:59

                                                                    this is not directed at paul..

                                                                     

                                                                    Dustin

                                                                    01/16/2010 10:38:55

                                                                    TJ, If you have info on any of the problems we post we would really like to have it. Were not staking claims, just trying to get info out there and make it easier for people to recognize and find these problems. Names and grades are pretty useful that way. If you know the original name or grade for any of the stuff we add, please enlighten us. Sorry for stepping on your toes.

                                                                     

                                                                    Dustin

                                                                    01/16/2010 10:44:21

                                                                    Also, here is Joe's blog entry on this topic:

                                                                    http://www.boulderingtucson.com/1/post/2009/11/grades-and-history.html

                                                                     

                                                                    Joe

                                                                    01/16/2010 18:42:47

                                                                    Paul - is that the Narcos variation? I have heard of a variation called Narcos, but am still unsure which one that is.

                                                                    TJ - I sent you an email, but feel I should take this opportunity to explain to others why we began naming problems around town.

                                                                    After discussing the idea with an assortment of people I climb with, running the idea by a couple of 'old timers', and starting a discussion on mountianproject.com, we came to the conclusion that it would make communication about local problems much easier if we began 'retro-naming' problems. This was not to take any credit for finding or FAing problems (we have been very conservative about that). Only to make good information available about local bouldering.

                                                                    Like Dustin said, if anyone has info about problems we have given names to, we are happy to change the names to reflect the proper FA. But in lieu of that information, I think it makes communicating info about problems much easier if we give them names. I would love to hear any other opinions and ideas about this, though.

                                                                     

                                                                    tj

                                                                    01/17/2010 19:28:13

                                                                    ..no worries... i really am indifferent to the whole thing... personally i never really gave any names or grades to the majority of the problems that i have done. but, it is proper etiquette to leave a problem (or route) unnamed if u do not know what it is called (just think if u went to hueco and started naming established problems).. i'll go thru ur topos and send u guys stuff that i know of... if u guys ever have any questions, email me.. i might be of some help.. lates

                                                                     

                                                                    Paul

                                                                    01/21/2010 12:53:21

                                                                    Joe,

                                                                    Hi. The Hairpin Roof variation I mentioned is called Narcos. I was trying to tread lightly and add my input without causing a stir. I thought it was really cool. I like Hairpin Roof but once I completed the problem I got bored doing it a million times and all the variations (you mentioned). Eliminating the use of that one good hold makes you climb it so different. And, it's a lot harder.

                                                                    I just wanted to share the fun even though it's contrived. Enjoy.

                                                                    Paul

                                                                     

                                                                    Peter

                                                                    01/21/2010 23:39:02

                                                                    joe,
                                                                    i finally found your site...great job man! i'm super impressed! you'll have to show me what program u use to make those great videos. hope to climb w/ you soon.

                                                                     



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