HAIRPIN TOPOS
Overview Topo
| hairpintopo.pdf |
Hairpin Roof
The problems on this boulder can be a bot confusing. To try and make things a little clear, I have made two topos, each with a different way to show where the problems go. Many of the problems top out at the same spot, where there is a sweet spot in the slopey lip, a good heel, and a small but good incut about 2.5 feet back that helps you rock over. The landings under the roof are not great, so multiple pads and a good spotter is highly recommended. CLICK ON PHOTOS FOR A SLIGHTLY LARGER AND CLEARER PICTURE.
1. Widowmaker (v3/4) *** - Start on a big ledge on the right side of the boulder. Move up and match in a good right facing flake. Move up to a left hand crimp a little below the lip, and get a hand/foot match in the flake. From here you can cross your right hand up to the lip, or bump your left hand to the lip. The further left you hit on the lip the better it is. Traverse a little left to the sweet spot for topping out.
2. Hairpin Roof Right (v7/8) *** - Start under the roof near the pedestal helping to balance the boulder (do not use this boulder for your feet). There is a flat edge and an incut crimp and a heelhook to get you started. Move left hand to a small incut crimp, then right hand to the rail (there is a crescent slope on the left side of the rail, and a flat edge on the right side). Move left up again to another small incut - avoiding the sloper rail out left completely. Get a tricky hand/heel match on the right rail, then bump your right hand to a bad intermediate, then bump again to a good incut just below the lip. Slap the lip, top out.
3. Hairpin Roof (v6) **** - Start same as #2. Left hand to the incut, right hand to the rail. Then move left hand to the sloper rail that is off for #2, and right hand to the incut crimp just above this sloper rail. Bump left hand to an intermediate,, then to flat jug on the lip, move a little right and top out.
4. Cop Killa (v8) *** - Start standing on the left side of the roof, with a good left hand crimp and a bad right hand edge, hop up to a heelhook at the lip. Throw right hand up to the good sloper, get a solid heelhook in a notch, then cross your left to the sloper rail, using a subtle thumb catch. Bump your right further along the sloper rail, then bring your heel around and closer to your left hand. Cross left hand into the incut crimp, then move way right and a little down to the crescent/rail hold. Get a tricky hand/heel match on the right hand rail, then bump right hand to an intermediate then the incut as you do on Roof Right. Top out.
5. Contorted Lip Traverse (v3) *** - Start underneath the roof on the left side, on the pedestal boulder. Press your left hand into the roof and reach out right to a good crimp, or all the way to the lip. Bring your left to a pinch at the lip, then swing a heel onto the lip. From here, traverse right using the biggest holds you can find, goos slopers and flat ledges. traverse all the way right into the top out of the other problems.
6. Contorted (v4) ** - Start underneath roof as for #5. Move to lip, but then go straight up face, using open handed edges for hands and desperate heel hooks. Looks easy, but I have to grovel my way up every time.
Here is another way to decipher the 3 problems that share a lot of holds - Hairpin Roof, Roof Right and Cop Killa. I have labeled key holds with numbers, and given the sequence of holds that each problems uses. There are a couple of small intermediates I left out for clarity, but they should be obvious when you are looking at them.
2. Hairpin Roof Right (v7/8) *** - Start under the roof near the pedestal helping to balance the boulder (do not use this boulder for your feet). There is a flat edge and an incut crimp and a heelhook to get you started. Move left hand to a small incut crimp, then right hand to the rail (there is a crescent slope on the left side of the rail, and a flat edge on the right side). Move left up again to another small incut - avoiding the sloper rail out left completely. Get a tricky hand/heel match on the right rail, then bump your right hand to a bad intermediate, then bump again to a good incut just below the lip. Slap the lip, top out.
3. Hairpin Roof (v6) **** - Start same as #2. Left hand to the incut, right hand to the rail. Then move left hand to the sloper rail that is off for #2, and right hand to the incut crimp just above this sloper rail. Bump left hand to an intermediate,, then to flat jug on the lip, move a little right and top out.
4. Cop Killa (v8) *** - Start standing on the left side of the roof, with a good left hand crimp and a bad right hand edge, hop up to a heelhook at the lip. Throw right hand up to the good sloper, get a solid heelhook in a notch, then cross your left to the sloper rail, using a subtle thumb catch. Bump your right further along the sloper rail, then bring your heel around and closer to your left hand. Cross left hand into the incut crimp, then move way right and a little down to the crescent/rail hold. Get a tricky hand/heel match on the right hand rail, then bump right hand to an intermediate then the incut as you do on Roof Right. Top out.
5. Contorted Lip Traverse (v3) *** - Start underneath the roof on the left side, on the pedestal boulder. Press your left hand into the roof and reach out right to a good crimp, or all the way to the lip. Bring your left to a pinch at the lip, then swing a heel onto the lip. From here, traverse right using the biggest holds you can find, goos slopers and flat ledges. traverse all the way right into the top out of the other problems.
6. Contorted (v4) ** - Start underneath roof as for #5. Move to lip, but then go straight up face, using open handed edges for hands and desperate heel hooks. Looks easy, but I have to grovel my way up every time.
Here is another way to decipher the 3 problems that share a lot of holds - Hairpin Roof, Roof Right and Cop Killa. I have labeled key holds with numbers, and given the sequence of holds that each problems uses. There are a couple of small intermediates I left out for clarity, but they should be obvious when you are looking at them.


