MOLINO BASIN
Right below It Cliff (and the sought after It Crack) is a jumble of boulders in the ephemeral creek. And even though Catalina Hwy looms directly above, the small canyon is quiet and serene, the kind of place where resting between problems quickly turns into 45 minutes of staring at the trees blowing in the wind. Butterflies, birds and tree frogs are all abundant (and occasionally bees and wasps, so beware), and I imagine that come dusk, plenty more animals come to the small creek to look for water and food.
The boulders here are creekbed boulders - water-polished and friction-less. Fortunately the erosional processes also created nice, sculpted grooves and ledges for our hands to grasp onto. Smearing your feet is out of the question here, and precise footwork is crucial. Many of the boulders are quite tall and highball, and there are some spectacular roofs. There are also excellent shorter and moderate problems, so even though there are not a ton of boulders here, the problems are spread out pretty evenly between the grades.
This is one of those areas that has been climbed in the past, and is being re-discovered once again. For the sake of communication, we have added names to some problems that were certainly climbed before. By adding names to these problems we are not trying to slight those who came before us, or claim credit for FA's, but to make it easier for boulderers to discuss these problems moving forward. If anyone has info on the history of climbing here, I'd love to hear about it. And if you had names for these problems that pre-date our newer names, I will revert to the original name.
The boulders here are creekbed boulders - water-polished and friction-less. Fortunately the erosional processes also created nice, sculpted grooves and ledges for our hands to grasp onto. Smearing your feet is out of the question here, and precise footwork is crucial. Many of the boulders are quite tall and highball, and there are some spectacular roofs. There are also excellent shorter and moderate problems, so even though there are not a ton of boulders here, the problems are spread out pretty evenly between the grades.
This is one of those areas that has been climbed in the past, and is being re-discovered once again. For the sake of communication, we have added names to some problems that were certainly climbed before. By adding names to these problems we are not trying to slight those who came before us, or claim credit for FA's, but to make it easier for boulderers to discuss these problems moving forward. If anyone has info on the history of climbing here, I'd love to hear about it. And if you had names for these problems that pre-date our newer names, I will revert to the original name.
GETTING HERE: Drive Catalina HWY up the mountain approx. 4 miles, then park at the Molino Basin parking lot on the right hand side of the road. This lot is about 1 miles before the fee station, so also a good place for dirtbags.
APPROACH: Follow the trail heading south from the lot, then scramble down the hill into the creek. The boulders are scattered along the creek below the cliffs. SPECIAL CONSIDERATIONS: Beware of bees and wasps! Recommended ProblemsFat Lip (v1)
Action Arete (v2) Battle Tackle (v4) Hammer of Hate (v8) Wu Tang Sword (project - v10?)
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