Driving up the mountain, just past the General Hitchcock campground, there is an obvious jumble of boulders coming down the hillside off to your right. Way up and left, near the top of the hill, are the boulders of the Secret Gully. But scattered low on the hillside, just off the road, are the Peanut Boulders. These boulders got a bad rap in the McMillen guide, and maybe that has deterred people from climbing there. But they have seen a bit of traffic the last couple of years, and there are some really good problems here. This is another one of those good areas that doesn't see nearly enough traffic. And like most of Tucson bouldering areas, a little bit exploring away from the main clusters reveal many more worthy boulders.
The rock here is a little different from most of Lemmon rock. It is a little more like Joshua Tree, with fine grained crystals of white granite. The qualtiy ranges from ok to great, with some of the worse boulders having a decent amount of kitty litter constantly crumbling off. The good boulders have solid rock, and cool features including angling quartz bands, and perfect aretes. While there isn't a lot of steep stuff here, there are many good boulders that will test your technical prowess. I have climbed some of my favorite easy problems here, and tried some pretty difficult problems. There are a few lines I've spied that probably have never seen an ascent, but will be outstanding problems in the v7-10 range.
DRIVING DIRECTIONS -
Drive up Catalina Hwy, up to around MP 12. Just after General Hitchcock campground, look for one of a few parking spots off to the left. Park, cross street and begin looking for problems.
APPROACH DIRECTIONS -
There is no real approach, and no trails between boulders. Depending on which boulders you plan to hit, you can park a little higher or lower along the road to make your approach a little shorter.
SPECIAL CONSIDERATIONS -
There are no trails here, and the soil here post-fire is very loose and unstable. Take extra care not to walk on plants that are re-vegetating the area.
Aretey Done (v0) - Square Top Boulder
Bald Ambition (v3) - Ambition Boulder
Ramses (v3) - Nacho Boulder
Cruisin For A Bruisin (v3) - Quartz Band Boulder
Anything on Dark Matter Boulder
courtesy of Chris Prewitt. CLICK TO ENLARGE.