PENA BLANCA BOULDERS - LAS CRUCES, NM
THE POOR MAN"S HUECO.
Pena Blanca (aka Bishops Cap) sits in a remote and arid region a little east of Las Cruces, NM. For many, this place will never be worth the drive, since another hour in the car will bring you to the mecca. If you are looking for a new and unique winter road trip destination, and want to avoid the hoops and restrictions of Hueco, this is a fun option. This is a place where you can feel free and vital - days roaming the desert in search of good problems, and nights sitting around a roaring campfire, howling at the moon. Pena Blanca is on BLM land, and is a Wilderness Study Area. Even though it is relatively close to Las Cruces, is feels very remote and you are likely to have the place all to yourself. In our two days there we didn't see another soul, except a few ATV's of in the distance when we were on a hillside. While it seems like a place where anything goes, please be more responsible with your trash than some of the other visitors to the area. This is a fragile desert grassland ecosystem, and is also home to a number of culturally significant archeological sites. As with any area, try to practice a Leave No Trace ethic, especially anywhere near the archeological sites.
The climbing is scattered between several mountains that are part of the southern tip of the Organ Mountains, with enough developed bouldering and roped climbing for close to a week stay. We stayed on the east side, but it seems like there is plenty to do on the west side, and near the tops of the mountains as well. The rock is a volcanic tuff, not too different from Queen Creek. What sets this place apart and makes it worth the drive are the numerous caves scattered about, which contain some great steep climbing, The Rave Cave, in particular, is home to what must be one of the best v3's anywhere. White Lightning climbs up and around on an 8 foot tall and very wide stalactite hanging from the middle of the cave. From the stalactite you make long, dynamic moves on good holds across the lip of the cave to a tricky topout - amazing climbing on unusual and aesthetic features.
The caves are on the southern end of the area, and as you hike north you come across numerous concentrations of freestanding boulders and short cliffbands. Most of them have been developed, but it seemed like there was still a good amount that could be climbed. The climbing on the boulders tended to be crimpy, and a little rough on the tips. But with so many good problems to choose from, it is hard to slow down. There are tall slabs, gently overhung faces, and funky bulges to climb, with a good number of the problems in the v3-6 range. And while it certainly isn't Hueco (but what is), it is a beautiful place to spend a few days bouldering and camping.
Pena Blanca (aka Bishops Cap) sits in a remote and arid region a little east of Las Cruces, NM. For many, this place will never be worth the drive, since another hour in the car will bring you to the mecca. If you are looking for a new and unique winter road trip destination, and want to avoid the hoops and restrictions of Hueco, this is a fun option. This is a place where you can feel free and vital - days roaming the desert in search of good problems, and nights sitting around a roaring campfire, howling at the moon. Pena Blanca is on BLM land, and is a Wilderness Study Area. Even though it is relatively close to Las Cruces, is feels very remote and you are likely to have the place all to yourself. In our two days there we didn't see another soul, except a few ATV's of in the distance when we were on a hillside. While it seems like a place where anything goes, please be more responsible with your trash than some of the other visitors to the area. This is a fragile desert grassland ecosystem, and is also home to a number of culturally significant archeological sites. As with any area, try to practice a Leave No Trace ethic, especially anywhere near the archeological sites.
The climbing is scattered between several mountains that are part of the southern tip of the Organ Mountains, with enough developed bouldering and roped climbing for close to a week stay. We stayed on the east side, but it seems like there is plenty to do on the west side, and near the tops of the mountains as well. The rock is a volcanic tuff, not too different from Queen Creek. What sets this place apart and makes it worth the drive are the numerous caves scattered about, which contain some great steep climbing, The Rave Cave, in particular, is home to what must be one of the best v3's anywhere. White Lightning climbs up and around on an 8 foot tall and very wide stalactite hanging from the middle of the cave. From the stalactite you make long, dynamic moves on good holds across the lip of the cave to a tricky topout - amazing climbing on unusual and aesthetic features.
The caves are on the southern end of the area, and as you hike north you come across numerous concentrations of freestanding boulders and short cliffbands. Most of them have been developed, but it seemed like there was still a good amount that could be climbed. The climbing on the boulders tended to be crimpy, and a little rough on the tips. But with so many good problems to choose from, it is hard to slow down. There are tall slabs, gently overhung faces, and funky bulges to climb, with a good number of the problems in the v3-6 range. And while it certainly isn't Hueco (but what is), it is a beautiful place to spend a few days bouldering and camping.
For more info, visit vcrux.com
A couple of videos from Dustin Payne (not the best video quality, but give a good idea of the climbing):
A couple of videos from Dustin Payne (not the best video quality, but give a good idea of the climbing):
Joes V5 from Dustin Payne on Vimeo.
Pena Blanca III from Dustin Payne on Vimeo.
Plus a cool slideshow here: TEAM TUESDAY GOES TO PENA BLANCA